Archive for August, 2006
Pesto Variations
Wednesday, August 30th, 2006P
esto, of course, is not news, as wonderful as it is. It comes at us in supermarkets, on restaurant menus, and in so many guises and pairings that it's become an almost annoying commonplace. So why blog about it? Because we still can't get enough of it: on pasta, smeared on bread, in a sandwich, in a little blob on our scrambled eggs, wherever and whenever! In the season when basil comes in armloads I'm making and freezing as many little containers as I can.
Another reason not to blog about it is that it's been done so much better by so many talented people. Take a look at Melissa's evocative post on her beautiful blog The Traveler's Lunchbox to see just one shining example. What, I ask you, could I add to the world's appreciation of pesto when there are people like Melissa who can do it so much better than I could?
But of course, there's always a new adventure around the next corner, no matter how well you think you know the trail. Last night I made another bucket of pesto, and, in anticipation of the huge load of new farm-freshness that's coming today when I pick up my Wolf Pine Farm share (8 pounds of tomatoes!), I decided to just throw in everything green and flavorful that I had in the refrigerator. Basil, of course, but also a huge bunch of turnip greens from last week, as well as tarragon, sage and parsley. The result, when it appeared on the table, had not only a fresh, interesting taste but seemed to glow a brighter shade of green than the usual basil pesto. (Honest, that's not spinach linquine in the picture -- it just turned that color when tossed in the "everything pesto!") It was so striking and delicious that E convinced me to take a picture and agree to post it, even while I was protesting that "pesto's been done to death!" Paired with a simple salad of bibb lettuce, Wolf Pine Farm purple tomatoes, Vidalia onions and blanched baby turnips, and served with a crunchy marinated olive bread from Standard Bakery, this slight twist on the standard made a perfect late summer meal.
Pesto with Five Herbs
Adapted from Marcella Hazan, Essentials of Italian Cooking
(Makes about 4 cups. I usually use about half a cup for 8 oz of dry pasta and freeze the rest in half-cup containers.)
2 C basil (all herb meaurements were packed tighly)
2 C turnip greens
1/2 C tarragon
2 T sage
1/2 C curly parsley
1 C pine nuts
8 cloves garlic, minced
2-1/4 C olive oil
1 C Parmigiano Reggiano, shredded
1/2 C Romano cheese, shredded
6 T butter, softened
salt
Note: with this quantity, the food processing needs to be done in batches.
Place the herbs, pine nuts, olive oil and garlic in the food processor with the steel blade in place and process several minutes, until the mixture is a smooth paste. Remove to a bowl. Add the cheeses and butter and mix with a rubber spatula. Salt to taste.
To serve with pasta, lift the pasta directly from the pot into the pesto bowl, allowing some of the pasta water to ride along. Toss thoroughly to coat the pasta. Serve immediately.
Mother and Mother-in-Law
Wednesday, August 30th, 2006As I go through my kitchen and inventory all my Chinese and American supplies it occurs to me that my mom will have to make do with things, she is not used to here and things that she might miss from Guam aka the States.
A laundry list came to mind but her are my top 5:
1. The lack of good plastic wrap, the plastic wrap in Italy is NOT Reynolds Wrap.
2. No canned or boxed chicken broth or beef broth for that matter, just over salty bouillon cubes.
3. No doubly thick, super strength aluminum foil, for broiling her famous Chinese BBQ pork on the oven.
4. No low sodium soy sauce
5. Gallons of milk, here they some in liter, almost the same the quarts and only last us 2 days or so.
I took Deme to the market to have a look at all the Asian stores I frequent so he will be able to take my mom. In addition, I spoke to my neighborhood shopkeeper and told him that I might be sending my mom over with a short list of items, as she does not speak any Italian. He then gave me a card and said I could call with my list and he could have it ready or he could even walk the groceries over to my house for me. Wow! Now that is great customer service. I hope with all my preparations we will be ready to have my mom stay at least a month and maybe up to two. I miss her cooking and her laugh; it has been almost 4 years since I have seen her and I am looking forward to her trip almost as much as the actual baby itself.
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¿Por qué?
Tuesday, August 29th, 2006
Siempre veo las cosas para niños que van saliendo y me pregunto lo mismo… ¿por qué no existían cuando yo era chiquita? Esto lo vi hace unos días y me pareció además perfecto para mantener a los niños sin correr por los pasillos de los automercado. Un carrito con TV. Por lo pronto está disponible en los Publix de Atlanta (EEUU) como prueba. Pasan Barney, Bob el constructor y otros programas infantiles (y por supuesto pronto la publicidad del cereal de moda).
Aquí pueden encontrar un video del carrito en funcionamiento. También sería buena idea que los automercados tuvieran alguna especie de sistema de enseñanza electrónico por ejemplo de frutas y vegetales para que los niños aprendieran a identificarlas visual, olfativa y gustativamente, pero bueno, creo que ya eso es mucho pedir.
Muerde esa mano que te da de comer
Tuesday, August 29th, 2006
Que haga clic el que tiene en su centro laboral o de estudios la mala suerte de ser alimentado por un concesionario de Charlottes. Yo soy uno de esos casos, aunque por suerte cuando tengo que comer algo de allà solo se trata de un sánguche o una torta, ya que mi almuerzo es sana, alimenticia y balanceada comida preparada en casa.
Y cuando tengo ese antojo a media mañana y opto por un sánguche suele ser el de palta, que cuando no le tiran en salero dentro es rico, o sus triples, que cuando tienen relleno valen la pena, pero hay que estar atento antes de dar el primer mordisco porque también estilan eso de llenar solo por los bordes. Ya un par de veces he pedido que me pongan el relleno en serio. Que fastidio, por ahorrarse unos centavos ponen en riesgo la fidelidad del cliente, pero claro, como nos tienen ahà cautivos no les interesa ninguna de las teorÃas modernas de atención al cliente.
Recuerdo que al inicio su comida me parecÃa buena y a veces pensaba en no llevar mi loncherita para probar estas supuestas delicias culinarias. La fantasÃa duró poco y se desvaneció la primera vez probé sus tallarines a lo Alfredo con un trozo de carne rosáceo y tan delgado como la anorexia misma y que se suponÃa era una milanesa de pollo. Ciertamente impasable.
La segunda vez, y espero última, que comà su almuerzo fue un lomo saltado que tenÃa 50% de arroz, 25% de cebollas, 20% de papas fritas y 5% de carnes medio crudas.
Que la foto no lo engañe, solo habÃan 6 pedazos de carne en el plato.
Los platos mejor preparados son los del menú ejecutivo, y aunque no seas uno, por cinco solcitos puedes comprártelo.
Alguien podrá salir a defender el menú que come dÃa a dÃa en estas cafeterÃas, y es cierto, el tema es discutible, como todo lo referente a gustos, pero el principal motivo por el cual creo que Charlottes es un pésimo lugar es por su servicio, y esto lo nota cualquier persona con sentido común. No se como será en otras sucursales (aunque tampoco he escuchado buenos comentarios de la de la Universidad del PacÃfico y la UPC) pero en la que opera donde trabajo, los mozos y meseras son un grupo entrenado en la atención de cuartel, a excepción de dos personas puntuales que muestran su esfuerzo por hacer un buen trabajo y a quienes se les agradece la sonrisa que mantienen en la cara aunque el lugar esté lleno y tengan que llevar jarras de refresco de un lugar a otro.
Pero los malos elementos son la mayorÃa, empezando por la señorita que sirve la comida, quien me recuerda a las pelÃculas de colegios militares, donde cogen el cucharón y lanzan la porción al plato y si un poco de la sopa cae sobre el arroz, o un alguna zanahoria del arroz sobre el tallarÃn, pues que más da. Ni se inmuta.
Además de esa atención desalentadora, no tienen el más mÃnimo cuidado a la hora de poner los vasos en la mesa, estos llegan chorreando agua y nadie dice nada. ¿Tan difÃcil es usar su secador para al menos entregar vasos que no parezcan de cevicherÃa de mercado? (con el respeto que los locales modestos que secan sus vasos merecen).
Creo que esta cafeterÃa tienen el potencial para cambiar, pero primero se tienen que cambiarse el chip. Para darles algunas ideas dejaré una lista de sugerencias en el buzón que tienen empotrado en una esquina. Ojala lo lean y sobre todo que lo tengan en cuenta.
Su nota:
An embarrassment of riches.
Tuesday, August 29th, 2006Apart from a big pile of peaches, last week's share at the CSA included 7 ears of fresh sweet corn. Just like share from the week before. And the week before that.
Now, I love sweet corn. I had eaten it roasted, boiled, steamed, creamed, and scalloped. Hot, cold, and tossed into a room temperature salad. So how could I use up this week's installment without succumbing to a surfeit of corn that might perhaps blight my affection for it? Tamales de elote. Because tamales make everything better.
Tamales de elote are extra special, because unlike some sorts of tamale, you can make them sweet and dessert-like, studded with fruits and pine nuts and perfumed with cinnamon, or savory and stuffed with roasted chiles and cheese, or slow-cooked pork shoulder or carnitas, if you are in a carnivorous mood. You can even forgo fillings all together, and savor the delicate sweetness of the masa and fresh corn.
For the health-consious, there is, alas, no way around the fact that a good tamale contains a good bit of fat. But you can certainly make those calories count by choosing a fat that will contribute generously to the taste of your finished product.
There's not a really huge Mexican community in the Boston area, so I can't just nip over to the corner Mexican grocery and buy lovely toasty Mexican lard, redolent of roast pork. To get around this, I render my own. It's cheap and easy--I buy hog fat at the butcher, grind it in my food processor, put it in a big thick pot with water to cover, put my pot on the stove on medium heat, and wait. Eventually the fat melts, the water boils off, and I am left with a lovely pot full of golden lard. I pour the lard off into an old coffee can and store it in my freezer(covered, of course, to keep out off smells and tastes). The crunchy bits of meat that are left in the lard are good skimmed out and sprinked with salt--you can eat these cracklins as is, or add them to tamales, or cornbread. Mmmm.
But in case you have neither the time nor the inclination to make lard, you can use unsalted butter instead (especially if you are making sweet tamales). I wouldn't use the lard that comes in white bricks from the grocery store--all the calories and none of the flavor. Blech.
Tamales de Elote
Tamale Dough
1 1/2 cups masa, reconstituted with about 1 1/4 cups hot tap water
1/2 tsp salt
2 tbsp piloncillo or brown sugar--you can add an extra tablespoon or two if you are making sweet tamales
1/2 cup butter or lard
1 tsp cinnamon (for sweet tamales)
4 ears of sweet corn, shucked. Save the husks--you will use them to wrap the tamales.
Sweet Tamale Fillings
1/2 cup golden rasins
and/or
1/2 cup toasted pine nuts
and/or
1/2 cup crushed pineapple WELL drained
Savory Tamale Fillings
1 cup grated cheese (Jack works well)
and/or
2 Poblano peppers, skinned, seeded, and diced
and/or
1 cup shredded pork shoulder
Make the Tamale Dough
Mix the masa with the hot tap water to form a dough the consistancy of cookie dough.
Set the masa aside.
Cut the corn off the cobs and set the corn aside.
Hold the corncobs over the masa and scrape the cobs to extract the remaining corn and corn juice.
Cream the sugar, salt, and lard or butter together until light and fluffy. A stand mixer really helps for this.
Add the masa mixture to the creamed fat and beat on medium speed until thoroughly combined and light and fluffy--about 2 minutes. (This is when you really begin to appreciate your mixer....) Test to see if you have beaten the dough enough by dropping a spoonful into a bowl of water. If the dough floats, you have beaten enough air into it.
Fold in the corn kernels and the cinnamon (if you are making sweet tamales).
Fold the Tamales
For each tamale, lay out a corn husk flat on your table or counter. Put a blob of dough--1/4 cup or so--onto the husk and spread it out, leaving a 1/4 inch margin on each side of the husk, and 3 inches or so at the top and bottom. If one husk is too narrow for this, you can lay down two overlapping husks, though this is trickier to keep together.
Put a tablespoon or so of filling in the center of the dough, then fold the sides of the husk in towards the center of the tamale. Fold the bottom of the husk up to cover the dough completely, and tie the tamale shut with a thin strip of corn husk.
You can also make a neater square package by folding the top of the husk towards the bottom of the tamale, if you like.
Repeat until all of the dough is used up.
Steam the Tamales
Put an inch or two of water into a large pot, and add a steaming rack (a bamboo steamer works well too--that's what I use for small batches these days). When the water comes to a boil, stand the tamales in the steamer--open side facing upwards, of course, if you aren't folding all of the sides, as in the previous picture.
If you've folded the tamales into square packages, you can lay them in the steamer flat, as shown in the following snapshot:
Cover the pot and steam the tamales 40-45 minutes, adding more water if the pot threatens to boil dry (Check every 10 min or so to prevent this.). The tamales are done when you can smell cooked masa, and the husks peel cleanly away from the tamale dough.
Cool the tamales for 5 minutes or so, then serve. The savory ones are particularly good with salsa verde on top.
Cooked tamales freeze well in an airtight container, and they also survive well in the fridge for several days. The process of reheating is the same--put the tamales (frozen or still cold from the fridge and still in their husks) into a covered casserole and heat in a 350 degree oven (or the microwave) until hot.





